Hydrodynamica

This isn't what you think it is, but then, things rarely are.

Shapers Who Shape Us

A story about all the greats who picked up a planer and made surf craft.

quivR killR

When I started shaping the Secret, I couldn't help but shape one for myself. 6'6" x 21" x 2 5/8" I also went with the five fin boxes so I can mix it up. Inspired by the Firewire Dominator, and almost ready to shred.

The Present

Yeah you cats have all seen this, but it is always worth a second watch. Enjoy.

Color Swatches

Here's a sample of the pigments and tints I have in stock. The opaque colors in the first photo will not change by adding more or less pigment. The translucent colors in the second photo will change, becoming deeper and darker as more tint is added.

Custom Everything

The cool thing about ordering a custom board, is precisely that, it's custom. Shape, colors, fin setup, and even the logos that you want glassed in it are totally your call. The end result is a board that is truly one of a kind.

Color in Cursive

So, I attempted my first resin swirl last night. It is far more difficult that just laying out color and mixing it around. Unless you are a veteran at this technique it's hard to know what the final product will turn into. Overall I am happy with the results and with the how seamless the cutlap came together, but I have some work to do before I can earn the title of Swirlmaster J.

Open for Business!

Just received a batch of blanks and fins from my latest California trip. I can now shape anything from a 6'0" fish to a 9'8" log. This photo represents about half of it. I have multiple colors of thruster, quad, and twin keel, and single fins in stock as well. My pigment assortment has grown considerably as well with a new selection of earth tones. Let the shaping begin!

Stoked!!!

I just delivered my first pair of boards to Third Coast Surf Shop. Ryan now carries two variations off of a longboard template I have been riding over the past year, called the Log Jammer and the Log Splitter. The 9'2" Log Jammer (the blue and orange board) has a blunt nose, rounded pin tail, with a pronouned tail rocker to help hold the board in a wave while cross stepping. The 9'0" Log Splitter is a narrower board with pronounced vee in the rounded pin tail for wave manueverability. Thanks Ryan, It's an honor to have a couple boards in your shop.

Surfboards Love Color

Working double overtime to get these two Single Fin longboards done. They will find their home at the Third Coast Surf Shop next weekend.

Epoxy Dreams

Crazy things happen in the shaping bay, especially when you have been huffing epoxy all weekend. The secret 6'6" gets a bottom laminate in coke bottle green. The deck patch is next up with a design that came to me in a dream. This board is a complete mystery, I don't even know what is going to happen next!?

Ghost Knife, Yes!!!

The Ghost Knife finally went home this Friday night. Upon seeing the board for the first time Scott gave a resounding fist pump - knee up, with a "Yes!!!" This man is stoked and I can't wait to see him surf it. It was an absolute pleasure shaping you this board Scotty, I hope that it serves you well.

Ghost Knife Laminate

Just finished laminating the deck patch on this monster. The bottom is a gun metal gray and the deck is a lighter smoke gray. A slick white pin line will separate the two. I have one more layer of cloth to go on the deck and might add a little more pigment to make the deck a touch darker. If the Sportel's could weigh in here I would appreciate it. Should I go darker on the deck or keep it the way it is???

EPIC

The Waiting Room

This has nothing to do with water or surfboards, but some of my customers may feel like they are sitting in the waiting room. Fugazi says, "that's okay, we feel your pain."

Shaped Ghost Knife

It slices, it dices, it juliennes. This board will have plenty of wave bite with a slight V in the pin tail, softer rails transitioning to sharp, and a nose concave just in case, i don't know, someone wants to walk the plank.

Shaped Secret

The Secret is shaped minus the single to double concave running out the tail. It's a very clean and simple shape, I can see why it is such a hit for Firewire. To quote the guy I am shaping this for "We don't need no stinkin' squash tails."

mini-bob

Yes, it is a strange shape, but in some ways there is more to love. I even gave her a heart. Now I'm just waiting for a swell...

Lost at Sea

6'0" mini simmons glass job

An interesting board deserves an interesting glass job.

10'6" Ghost Knife Outline

This board is for one of the most stoked surfers I know. After I drew the outline to this board, I realized it looked a lot like an aquarium fish I had as a kid, called a Ghost Knife. The blank has been skinned and the outline cut. Time to start shaping in the rocker and the rails.

6'6" Secret Outline

This board is loosely based on the Firewire Dominator. Full nose, round tail, five fin box, quiver killer. It's been donned The Secret.

Tribute

To a childhood hero who instilled fascination and wonder, cheers.

Funshape Finished

Buffed out the funshape this morning and she is ready for the water. I put Probox Fins in, thanks Larry for the custom Blue Fiberglass thruster setup. I really like the versatility of this fin system, it makes it super fun to play with. This should be a great all-around board.

Hydrodynamic Hull

I'm a believer, so a surfboard with any amount of mysticism attached to it, piques my interest. The mini-simmons oringinated back in the late 40's by a guy named Bob Simmons. He referred to the board as a hydrodynamic hull which took design aspects from an airplane wing to create lift and drive. The board is characterized by it's short, yet wide stature, S-deck, planning hull bottom which transitions from convex to flat to concave, and twin fin configuration. It is an excellent exercise in shaping to construct one of these surfboards. There are many subtleties and shaping transitions packed into a small board. Shaping this board has been an absolute pleasure, and I suspect that the ride will be just as satisfying.

Home Stretch

The funshape is so close to being finished, ProBox fin boxes are going in and the hotcoat needs to be sanded. The big question is, can I have it finished for Thursday's swell?

Cut Laps Away

Finished laminating the 7'6" funshape last night. Decided on a blue resin tint bottom, and light orange deck. I cut lap between the two with 6 oz. glass and epoxy resin, then went with another full 6 oz. over the deck. It should be bullet proof (at least as much as surfboards can be). I will put a black pin line down between the laps to cover up any inconsistencies in the edge. It's coming together nicely. This is a duplicate from a board that I made for my friend Topper on the east coast. He says it rides wicked good, and I wanted to give it a go. Bottoms up.

deep sea creatures

7'6" Funshape Outline

The shaping bay is busy again, this time with a good old funshape. Sure it is considered the Nancy Boy of surfboards. Go long, or go short, which is to say karate yes, or karate no. But on the lakes a funshape can be your best friend for those gutless days. More progress to come...

wonderment

Surfing is amazing. Surfing a board that you have meticulously shaped or that was personally shaped for you is even better. Many technical aspects come together to produce a board that performs and has an aesthetic to it. Combine that with the particular details that come together to make a surf session and you have a unique experience, that is impossible to replicate, and is wholly and completely yours. I like to think of it as a culmination of perfection, which organizes itself into a moment for you to enjoy. This blog is all about the moments and the details, presented through the eyes of a surfboard shaper. Here we are.